Showing posts with label Costumes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Costumes. Show all posts

Sunday, January 1, 2017

New Year's Traditions: The Philadelphia Mummers Parade


The Philadelphia Mummers Parade 1909 (Courtesy of Library of Congress)  

The Mummers parade is held each New Year’s Day in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It is believed to be the oldest folk festival in the US. The word “mummer” is derived from Momus, the Greek god of ridicule. The origins of the parade were inspired by Old World customs brought by the various groups who settled in Philadelphia, including the folk plays of the British Isles called Mummers’ Plays and the Swedish and Finnish custom of visiting neighbors after Christmas. The parade began as early as the 1870s, but it was not officially sponsored by the city for a number of years. The first official parade occurred in 1901, and it has grown into a unique and exciting tradition. 
 

Images from the Mummers Parade 1917 (from The Philadelphia Evening Ledger, 01/01/1917)


Many Philadelphians welcome friends and family on New Year’s Day to watch the parade (in person or on TV), and to eat and drink together. Staying warm is a priority; alcohol flows freely, and big pots of soup are often made to feed hungry guests who may be walking back and forth to the parade or visiting other friends and neighbors. Traditional soups include beef vegetable soup and Pepper Pot, made with beef tripe, vegetables, and black pepper.   


Edward Chevers, Musical Director, Lobster Club
(from The Philadelphia Evening Ledger, 01/01/1915)


Mummer's Parade 2011 (Photo by Carol M. Highsmith, courtesy of Library of Congress)


Most Mummers clubs are based in South Philadelphia, but a number of Mummers today (and their fans) live in other parts of Philadelphia and the local suburbs. Mummers are ordinary people, not professional entertainers, but they put a lot of love and dedication into creating elaborate costumes, routines and movable scenery each year, and feel a strong commitment to their community. 


Mummer's Parade 2011 (Photo by Carol M. Highsmith, courtesy of Library of Congress)

The famous “Mummers’ Strut”, is performed traditionally during the parade, and at many local weddings. Often Mummers carry an umbrella or parasol while doing the Strut.  



Charles Dumont, Lobster Club Captain Who Won Prize For Fancy Costume
(from The Philadelphia Evening Ledger, 01/01/1915)


Costumes are brightly colored, and decorated extravagantly with sequins and feathers; face paint is often worn. Traditionally the Mummers, their wives and friends made the costumes, but many of them are now made by professional costumers. Gold colored shoes are often worn, in reference to the parade’s unofficial theme song, “Oh Dem Golden Slippers” by James A. Bland. 


Another favorite Mummers tune is “I’m Looking Over a Four Leaf Clover, written by Mort Dixon with music by Harry M. Woods.




Mummer's Parade 2011 (Photo by Carol M. Highsmith, courtesy of Library of Congress)

Women were not allowed to be Mummers until the 1970s, but some men have historically dressed in women’s clothes during the parade. In recent years, this has mainly been done by the humorous Wench Brigades, who clearly look like men in costume. But early 20th century pictures, such as the ones below which appeared in The Philadelphia Evening Ledger on January 1, 1915, show men at the parade wearing fashionable dresses and shoes, more like modern female impersonators.



Charles Bell, Famous for His Ballet Girl Impersonation
E.W Dillon of Lobster Club


Clubs today compete in one of five categories called Divisions (Comics, Wench Brigades, Fancies, String Bands and Fancy Brigades).
  • The Comics dress as humorous characters or clowns, wearing colorful costumes and often carrying decorated parasols. They may be individual or group performers and children are often involved in this Division. Comics dance to prerecorded music and sometimes use floats. Often they reference politics and popular culture.
  • The Wench Brigades are now their own Division but began as an offshoot of the Comics. Men dress humorously in women’s clothing, traditionally wearing dresses, bloomers and bonnets over long braided wigs. They often carry parasols and wear “golden slippers”.
  • The Fancy Division focuses on elaborate costumes and floats called frame suits, and participants are judged on costume and presentation. Traditional themes are used and categories include King Clown, King Jockey, Handsome Trim, Handsome Costume and Fancy Trio.
  • Mummers String Bands have a unique sound, combining excellent musicianship and elaborate costumes. The instruments that make up a string band are saxophones, banjos, accordions, violins, bass violins, drums and glockenspiel; no brass instruments are allowed. Each string band selects an annual theme, with an elaborate performance that includes precision drilling and choreography.
  • The Fancy Brigades evolved from the Fancy Division. They perform inside, and present a choreographed four and a half minute themed performance with elaborate costumes, sets and props, and dancing reminiscent of a Broadway or Las Vegas Show.

Costumes at The Mummers Museum, Philadelphia, PA (Photo by Carol M. Highsmith, Library of Congress)


Visit www.phillymummers.com to find out more. The Mummers Museum website www.mummersmuseum.com also contains many photos and information about the Mummers past and present. Individual clubs also have their own websites


 
Youngest New Year Mummer in Parade Today--"Buddy" Backich 3 yrs. old, Mascot of the Lobster Club
(from The Philadelphia Evening Ledger, 01/01/1915)


Many modern traditions at the holiday season have ancient origins and symbolism. At the winter solstice, in the darkest and coldest days of the year, people have always craved light, warmth and fellowship. From the European pagan Yule and the Roman Saturnalia to the Jewish Hanukkah and the Christian and (often secular) Christmas, these celebrations have helped people to pass the long nights, connect to one another, and offer hope for the future and the spiritual triumph of light over darkness. Of course, for people living in the Southern hemisphere, the holidays fall in summer, instead of winter.  



Mummer's Parade 2011 (Photo by Carol M. Highsmith, courtesy of Library of Congress)
  

During Saturnalia, the ancient Roman festival in honor of the deity Saturn, which was held in December, there were religious observances and well as public and private festivals. Schools and courts were closed and special clothes were worn. There was feasting, drinking and gift-giving and a general carnival-like atmosphere. Roman social norms were temporarily overturned. For example, gambling was permitted and slaves were waited upon by their masters.



The Philadelphia Mummers Parade 1909 (Courtesy of Library of Congress)


Many later European and American holiday customs grew from the spirit and traditions of the ancient festival of Saturnalia, as well as from Christian religious inspiration. The following article from 1914 gives an overview of some of the origins of what came to be known as “mummery” in Britain and Ireland, part of the historical roots of the  Philadelphia Mummers and other American New Year’s traditions.



Float from the Mummers Parade 1915
(from The Philadelphia Evening Ledger, 01/01/1915)


Happy New Year Customs— Celebrations of the Mummers in Olden Days in England


In England the mummers performed plays, spoke dialogues and impersonated famous people, especially kings and warriors. Songs were sung both by the mummers and their entertainers. Here is one:

To shorten winter's sadness
See where the folks with gladneas
Disguised all are a-coming
Right wantonly a-mumming.

In those days they loved, too, to masquerade as animals, bears and unicorns being especially favored disguises. Scott's couplet summed it up:

Who lists may in their mumming see
Traces of ancient minstrelsy.

At last this mumming came to be a (seen as) a menace as well as a nuisance and (in the 16th Century) King Henry VIII made it a misdemeanor to wear a mask. 

It was George Washington who made the day what it once was in this country. Said he: "Never forget the cheerful and cordial observance of New Year's day." The celebration grew and grew, until a generation or so ago, the scenes enacted at some receptions were simply disgraceful, society having progressed some since it was good form to imbibe until the imbiber quietly slid under the table. 

Of late years there has been a tendency to revive (the custom of) visiting on the first day of the year. But it is all very informal, and every hostess knows each and every one of her guests, which was not always the ease when it was the fashion to have as many as possible…
--from the Anderson Daily Intelligencer,
Anderson, S.C., 12/18/1914





Tuesday, February 9, 2016

In Honor of Mardi Gras--Fancy Dress Costumes 1903



Melody by Harrison Fisher (1907)



Because costumes are such an important part of Mardi Gras celebrations, I am featuring fancy dress costumes which appeared in The Delineator in January 1903. The Butterick patterns to make these costumes were sold for 25 to 50 cents each. I have included the descriptions along with the pictures, which detail the features of the costumes, as well as accessories to be worn.



Fancy Dress Costumes
(Adapted From The Delineator, January 1903)

There is a keen pleasure aroused by the anticipation of attending a fancy ball, and no small part of it is due to the planning of what shall be worn. As in selecting other costumes, individual becomingness  should here be carefully studied: The brunette will select some character especially adapted to her, while the woman whose hair is light and complexion fair will choose the more dainty effects.  An important detail of fancy dress  is the arrangement of the hair, which should be in keeping with the character assumed, although in some instances a picturesque head-dress is worn. Effect is the chief consideration in carnival attire, and not so much the quality of the material; it is possible to achieve artistic results in the use of inexpensive fabrics, though, of course, rich brocades, Pompadour silks and velvets and beautiful Oriental stuffs will yield most artistic effects.




Toreador--This costume consists of a white shirt, dull-red breeches trimmed with gold braid, with jacket to match, light-brown stockings and dark-brown shoes, and a sash of blue silk worn about the waist. A black tie and cap are essential features of this costume, the pattern for which costs 30 cents.

Spanish Costume--A fitting companion to the costume described above is this gay-colored mode to be worn by a brunette. The short skirt is of yellow satin, trimmed around the bottom with black lace flounces; the low bodice is made of soft white silk, and the senorita jacket of deep red velvet is elaborately decorated with gold braid and fringe ornaments; the pointed girdle of velvet to match the jacket is laced with black velvet ribbon. The lace mantilla fastened at each side with red or yellow roses lends a characteristic touch. The price of the pattern is 30 cents.




 
Martha Washington





This costume will lend dignity to the wearer, who to complete the picture should powder her hair. A rich brocade was used to make the gown; the bodice is cut in V outline in front and finished with a fichu of white mull, crossed at the bust and brought around to the centre of the back at the waist-line. The skirt opens in front over a panel effect, and a train is worn. A cap of mull is added. Price of pattern, 40 cents.






Italian Skirt Dancer--Picturesque in the extreme is this costume, which is sometimes called the Taglioni dress. China silk, cashmere or other soft materials are suitable to make the gown, with spangled velvet for the boleros and short-waisted girdle. The skirt is in two sections, the upper one opening in the front over the under-skirt, and the ends are left free to be gracefully handled in the dance. The price of the pattern is 30 cents.

Uncle Sam-- This patriotic costume consists of trousers made of red-and-white striped material--linen or the like--a very long swallow-tail coat made of a blue fabric and a plain white or striped vest. A high collar having exaggerated wings in front and bow tie are worn, also a tall hat with a band of plain blue or red or white with stars over it. The pattern costs 30 cents.




Watteau or Shepherdess Costume




This picturesque dress consists of a low, square-cut bodice, pointed in front, elbow sleeves finished with deep frills, and a short, full skirt with panier drapery. Pale-green satin was associated with Pompadour satin in this instance, and black velvet was used to trim. White silk stockings and slippers, and a large picture hat are worn with this costume, the pattern for which costs thirty cents.





Portia or College Gown-- The simple elegance of this robe of black satin or silk will appeal to dignified tastes. The robe entirely conceals the under-dress, and the large loose sleeves add to the stateliness. A mortar-board cap is worn. The price of the pattern is 50 cents.

Rough Rider Costume--This military or "Rough Rider" costume may be made of tan-colored denim trimmed with either red or yellow denim or of linen in the same colors, and brass buttons add to its military air. Leggings to match are worn, also a "Rough Rider" hat. The pattern price is 25 cents.

Bat Costume--Soft black silk, or even veiling or gauze over a black foundation are appropriate materials to use. The bodice is low-necked and short-sleeved with puffs giving becoming breadth at the shoulders. Long Black gloves are worn to cover the arm and hand. The mantle is of black satin, made double and whaleboned to retain the proper shape. Pattern price 30 cents.





Pierrette--White and blue is the color combination employed. The short, full skirt of white satin is uniquely trimmed around the bottom with disks of blue plush, and the edge is scalloped. The bodice is tight-fitting and opens in a heart shape at the neck; it is trimmed with bands of the blue plush. A full ruche is worn about the neck, and long gloves coming up to meet the lower edge of the short puff sleeves are important adjuncts. A white satin, pointed hat with turned-up brim, faced with the blue plush and adorned with a feather pompon, is worn. Blue stockings and white slippers complete the costume. Pattern price 30 cents.

Court Jester--Nile-green and red were the colors used in the development of this costume. The oddity lies in the one-sided effect produced by having half of the blouse, the short trousers and the pointed collar and one sleeve and one stocking in one color and the other half of the costume in a different color. The ends of the deep points are finished with tiny bells. Pointed shoes are worn, also an oddly shaped cap with cape attached. Price, 30 cents.




Japanese Dress




Japanese silk in rich colors and design was selected to make the robe, which is distinguished by long, flowing sleeves and the wide sash of contrasting color silk. The hair should be arranged in a style suitable to the character portrayed, and added grace is achieved by carrying a Japanese fan. The pattern for the costume costs 40 cents.




Domino and Mask-- When time or expense is a consideration this costume will be found a very satisfactory selection. The design suggests the Mother Hubbard gown, with bell sleeves and cape with hood. Black China silk or satin or a soft woolen material will develop attractively, and a silk cord, knotted and tasseled, is worn about the waist to confine the fullness. The mask is of black satin, finished with a lace ruffle. The pattern costs 30 cents.


Clown--This costume is simply constructed, being in one-piece style, with the neck, ankles and wrists gathered into soft ruffles. White muslin or sheeting may be used to make the costume, with disks of red, yellow or blue cambric stuck over it. The conical shaped cap suggests various color schemes. The pattern is sold at 30 cents.





 Greek Gown



The charm of this Grecian gown is its simple, graceful lines. A delicate shade of soft blue silk was used, with white ribbon for the lattice sleeves and cross bands securing the top of the garment. A classic coiffure should be worn. The pattern costs 30 cents.



Little Lord Fauntleroy

The charming suit here shown may be worn either by a little boy or tiny girl, and it should be velvet--preferably black--with the deep cuffs and collar of white lace and the sash of soft silk or satin. The pattern costs 25 cents.





Empire Gown

This dainty gown, which is characterized by the sash tied under the arms, in quaint short-waisted effect, and the low neck and short sleeves. Any soft fabric will develop by this design. Price of pattern, 25 cents.

Adapted from The Delineator, January 1903



source

Friday, January 1, 2016

Happy New Year 2016!!!




 Aqua String Band - 2010 Performance.jpg
 "Aqua String Band - 2010 Performance" by Roniannacone - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.


With sunshine and a high temperature of 45 degrees, this is a great day for the Mummers Parade in Philadelphia!

The Mummers Parade is a great Philadelphia tradition, held each year on New Years Day. (It occasionally has had to be rescheduled due to bad weather.) It is believed to be the oldest folk festival in the USA.

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Aqua String Band - 2011 Performance.jpg
"Aqua String Band - 2011 Performance" by Roniannacone - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons.



 
Aqua2007.jpg
"Aqua2007" by Roniannacone at en.wikipedia - Own work