In Honor of Mardi Gras--Fancy Dress Costumes 1903

Melody by Harrison Fisher (1907)

Because costumes are such an important part of Mardi Gras celebrations, I am featuring fancy dress costumes which appeared in The Delineator in January 1903. The Butterick patterns to make these costumes were sold for 25 to 50 cents each. I have included the descriptions along with the pictures, which detail the features of the costumes, as well as accessories to be worn.

Fancy Dress Costumes

(Adapted From The Delineator, January 1903)

There is a keen pleasure aroused by the anticipation of attending a fancy ball, and no small part of it is due to the planning of what shall be worn. As in selecting other costumes, individual becomingness  should here be carefully studied: The brunette will select some character especially adapted to her, while the woman whose hair is light and complexion fair will choose the more dainty effects.  An important detail of fancy dress  is the arrangement of the hair, which should be in keeping with the character assumed, although in some instances a picturesque head-dress is worn. Effect is the chief consideration in carnival attire, and not so much the quality of the material; it is possible to achieve artistic results in the use of inexpensive fabrics, though, of course, rich brocades, Pompadour silks and velvets and beautiful Oriental stuffs will yield most artistic effects.

Toreador--This costume consists of a white shirt, dull-red breeches trimmed with gold braid, with jacket to match, light-brown stockings and dark-brown shoes, and a sash of blue silk worn about the waist. A black tie and cap are essential features of this costume, the pattern for which costs 30 cents.

Spanish Costume--A fitting companion to the costume described above is this gay-colored mode to be worn by a brunette. The short skirt is of yellow satin, trimmed around the bottom with black lace flounces; the low bodice is made of soft white silk, and the senorita jacket of deep red velvet is elaborately decorated with gold braid and fringe ornaments; the pointed girdle of velvet to match the jacket is laced with black velvet ribbon. The lace mantilla fastened at each side with red or yellow roses lends a characteristic touch. The price of the pattern is 30 cents.

 

Martha Washington

This costume will lend dignity to the wearer, who to complete the picture should powder her hair. A rich brocade was used to make the gown; the bodice is cut in V outline in front and finished with a fichu of white mull, crossed at the bust and brought around to the centre of the back at the waist-line. The skirt opens in front over a panel effect, and a train is worn. A cap of mull is added. Price of pattern, 40 cents.

Italian Skirt Dancer--Picturesque in the extreme is this costume, which is sometimes called the Taglioni dress. China silk, cashmere or other soft materials are suitable to make the gown, with spangled velvet for the boleros and short-waisted girdle. The skirt is in two sections, the upper one opening in the front over the under-skirt, and the ends are left free to be gracefully handled in the dance. The price of the pattern is 30 cents.

Uncle Sam-- This patriotic costume consists of trousers made of red-and-white striped material--linen or the like--a very long swallow-tail coat made of a blue fabric and a plain white or striped vest. A high collar having exaggerated wings in front and bow tie are worn, also a tall hat with a band of plain blue or red or white with stars over it. The pattern costs 30 cents.

Watteau or Shepherdess Costume

This picturesque dress consists of a low, square-cut bodice, pointed in front, elbow sleeves finished with deep frills, and a short, full skirt with panier drapery. Pale-green satin was associated with Pompadour satin in this instance, and black velvet was used to trim. White silk stockings and slippers, and a large picture hat are worn with this costume, the pattern for which costs thirty cents.

Portia or College Gown-- The simple elegance of this robe of black satin or silk will appeal to dignified tastes. The robe entirely conceals the under-dress, and the large loose sleeves add to the stateliness. A mortar-board cap is worn. The price of the pattern is 50 cents.

Rough Rider Costume--This military or "Rough Rider" costume may be made of tan-colored denim trimmed with either red or yellow denim or of linen in the same colors, and brass buttons add to its military air. Leggings to match are worn, also a "Rough Rider" hat. The pattern price is 25 cents.

Bat Costume--Soft black silk, or even veiling or gauze over a black foundation are appropriate materials to use. The bodice is low-necked and short-sleeved with puffs giving becoming breadth at the shoulders. Long Black gloves are worn to cover the arm and hand. The mantle is of black satin, made double and whaleboned to retain the proper shape. Pattern price 30 cents.

Pierrette--White and blue is the color combination employed. The short, full skirt of white satin is uniquely trimmed around the bottom with disks of blue plush, and the edge is scalloped. The bodice is tight-fitting and opens in a heart shape at the neck; it is trimmed with bands of the blue plush. A full ruche is worn about the neck, and long gloves coming up to meet the lower edge of the short puff sleeves are important adjuncts. A white satin, pointed hat with turned-up brim, faced with the blue plush and adorned with a feather pompon, is worn. Blue stockings and white slippers complete the costume. Pattern price 30 cents.

Court Jester--Nile-green and red were the colors used in the development of this costume. The oddity lies in the one-sided effect produced by having half of the blouse, the short trousers and the pointed collar and one sleeve and one stocking in one color and the other half of the costume in a different color. The ends of the deep points are finished with tiny bells. Pointed shoes are worn, also an oddly shaped cap with cape attached. Price, 30 cents.

Japanese Dress

Japanese silk in rich colors and design was selected to make the robe, which is distinguished by long, flowing sleeves and the wide sash of contrasting color silk. The hair should be arranged in a style suitable to the character portrayed, and added grace is achieved by carrying a Japanese fan. The pattern for the costume costs 40 cents.

Domino and Mask-- When time or expense is a consideration this costume will be found a very satisfactory selection. The design suggests the Mother Hubbard gown, with bell sleeves and cape with hood. Black China silk or satin or a soft woolen material will develop attractively, and a silk cord, knotted and tasseled, is worn about the waist to confine the fullness. The mask is of black satin, finished with a lace ruffle. The pattern costs 30 cents.

Clown--This costume is simply constructed, being in one-piece style, with the neck, ankles and wrists gathered into soft ruffles. White muslin or sheeting may be used to make the costume, with disks of red, yellow or blue cambric stuck over it. The conical shaped cap suggests various color schemes. The pattern is sold at 30 cents.

 Greek Gown

The charm of this Grecian gown is its simple, graceful lines. A delicate shade of soft blue silk was used, with white ribbon for the lattice sleeves and cross bands securing the top of the garment. A classic coiffure should be worn. The pattern costs 30 cents.

Little Lord Fauntleroy

The charming suit here shown may be worn either by a little boy or tiny girl, and it should be velvet--preferably black--with the deep cuffs and collar of white lace and the sash of soft silk or satin. The pattern costs 25 cents.

Empire Gown

This dainty gown, which is characterized by the sash tied under the arms, in quaint short-waisted effect, and the low neck and short sleeves. Any soft fabric will develop by this design. Price of pattern, 25 cents.

Adapted from The Delineator, January 1903

source

Traditional Foods-- Before Lent Begins

Carnival in Berlin, Germany (source)

 

 

Tomorrow, Tuesday February 9, is the day before Ash Wednesday. Known by many names (Fat Tuesday, Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, Pancake Tuesday,), it is the day before the Christian season of Lent begins. It is the culmination of the traditional Carnival season, celebrated in most famously in New Orleans, and in many other places around the world. In New Orleans, it is an exciting annual event marked by costumes, beads, parties, parades and excessive eating and drinking. There are many local customs and traditions around the world, and most are far more sedate, but involve foods considered rich and decadent.

German Doughnuts, Similar to Pennsylvania Dutch Fastnachts (source)

"Shrove Tuesday" is derived from the word shrive, meaning confession and absolution of sins. It is observed by many Christians, and is intended to be a day of reflection, examination of conscience, and asking for God's forgiveness and assistance to live a better life. Traditionally, Christians have observed the season of Lent, the forty days leading up to Easter, by engaging in fasting and prayer, giving to charity, and by living more simply in order to come closer to God. For example, Catholics fast during the day of Ash Wednesday, and eat a light meat-free meal for dinner. They also abstain from meat on Fridays during Lent. Many Christians observe Lent by eating more modestly, minimizing meats and sweets. Today many people give up something that they consider to be a "vice" for Lent, such as smoking, drinking or eating chocolate, and develop healthier habits as a result. Traditionally on Shrove Tuesday, people have indulged on fattening and delicious foods, such as doughnuts and pancakes, made to use up the last of the sugar, lard, butter and other fats, which would be avoided for the next several weeks.

Eating Donut by Ryan McGuire (source)

In Southeastern Pennsylvania where I live, the Pennsylvania Dutch tradition of Fastnacht (or Fasnacht) Day is alive and well. It began with the original German settlers of this region, and today is enjoyed by people of various backgrounds. These doughnuts can be round, but are usually square, or triangularly shaped, and normally do not have a hole. Some recipes are made with mashed potatoes; some use yeast and some do not. They are usually dusted with powdered or granulated sugar. Some churches use Fastnacht day as a fundraising opportunity, selling the traditional doughnuts, and holding church socials. Variations of these doughnuts can be widely found in area bakeries and supermarkets, and someone invariably brings a bunch of these doughnuts to every workplace on Fastnacht Day!

 

 Pennsylvania Dutch Kitchen (1942) Courtesy of Library of Congress

There are other delicious doughnuts and similar foods that are traditional on Shrove Tuesday, including New Orleans' famous Beignets and the jelly-filled Polish Paczki. A wonderful article with historical information and  traditional recipes for these and other Fat Tuesday delights is called Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras. It is found on npr.org. Please click on the following link to this article: http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras#fasnacht

Beignets and Coffee by Tahoemike10 (source)

In The UK, Ireland, Australia and Canada, Shrove Tuesday is traditionally observed as Pancake Tuesday. Many Americans continue to also follow this custom, and numerous churches hold special pancake suppers in celebration. It is especially common among Episcopal churches. The following is adapted from an article which appeared in The Delineator in February 1921. It features some unusual pancake recipes and suggestions to give variety to Pancake Tuesday and to meals year-round.

"Pancake Tuesday" falls on February the eighth this year (1921), as the Lenten season begins on the ninth,  ushered in with Ash Wednesday, the first day of fasting. It may be well to explain that this jolly-sounding name for the day before Ash Wednesday is now almost forgotten, as Mardi-Gras...,the French for "fat Tuesday" is the popular name and stands sponsor for the many Mardi-Gras carnivals held on that day.

Heart Shaped Pancakes -Photo by Cbaquiran (source)

Such feasting and revelry have quite supplanted the baking of Shrove Tuesday pancakes and having them ready to serve to the itinerant singers who roamed through the streets on the night before lent. The revival of this name gives the wide-awake housewife a good excuse to do a little experimenting to see what can be done in the way of pancakes other than the ordinary breakfast-table variety. 

Potato Pancakes

 A good way to begin is to introduce your family to the vegetable pancake served with the main course of the meal. The potato pancake stands out prominently in this list of vegetable pancakes and is always a favorite with the men of the family. With pot roast and plenty of brown gravy, there is little else to be desired at a meal than crispy-edged potato pancakes. (To make:) Pare, wash and put into cold water three large potatoes. Let soak overnight if convenient, but at least three or four hours. Grate them into a bowl and add one well-beaten egg, one-half cup flour and one teaspoon baking-powder. Season with salt and pepper and add milk to make a pouring batter. Bake like ordinary pancakes on a griddle and serve with sausage, stew or ham with a cream gravy. These potato pancakes are also good with syrup, sugar or jelly.

 Sweet Potato Pancakes

Sweet potato pancakes are delicious when served with chicken or veal. The same recipe for white potatoes may be followed, or for a change, try finely-chopped boiled sweet potatoes stirred into an ordinary batter until it will take no more.

Photo by Holgers Fotografie (source)

Tomato and Rice

Tomato and rice make such a delicious combination that it is well to try them in the novel form of a somehat thick pancake as an accompaniment to "Liberty Steak", which is the after-the-war name for "Hamburg". Place a portion of the steak on a tomato-rice pancake and pour a generous tablespoon of savory tomato sauce over all.

Corn Pancakes

Canned corn is excellent made into thick pancakes and served in the same way, as the tomato sauce beings out the flavor of the meat. This arrangement makes an attractive-looking platter for the table, as the meat cakes may be placed on the pancakes and the thick tomato sauce, garnished with parsley, used as a border.

Apple Pancakes

Apple pancakes as an accompaniment to roast pork or pork chops are always greeted as a welcome change from apple sauce. These are made in two ways, one by the addition of as much finely chopped raw tart apple as the batter will take. The other method results in a cake more like an apple fritter, as a thin slice cut from a pared and cored apple is taken up with each spoon of batter.

Poster 1918 (Courtesy of Library of Congress)

Holland Pancakes With Sausage Meat

Just because the rolled pancake is generally associated with jelly or some other sweet filling, there is no reason to limit these fancy pancakes to the list of deserts. A popular tea-room has built up a reputation for a delicious breakfast dish which is nothing more nor less than a novel way of serving griddle-cakes and sausage. Here's the way it is done: A rather large, thin pancake is first brushed with fat from the pan in which the sausage meat has been cooking. This is an advantage in this as it saves butter! Then hot sausage-meat is spread over one side of the pancake and it is quickly rolled and laid on a hot platter waiting for its mate, as two of these constitute a portion. If there is not too much filling and the rolled pancake is laid with lapping side next to the plate, there is no chance of it unrolling. For luncheon or supper spread the pancake with creamed ham or chicken, a savory force-meat (chopped meat)  or any other appetizing mixture made from left-overs. Roll each pancake quickly and keep at the door of the oven until all are ready.

Fort Kent, Maine. (vicinity). Mrs. [Leonard] Gagnon Making Buckwheat Pancakes
   Photo by: John Collier (1942) (Courtesy of Library of Congress)

French Pancakes

The popular jelly-filled pancake, known as French pancake, is so casually made and so good that it should figure more frequently on the family table. Follow any good recipe for pancakes, spread each with softened tart jelly and roll while hot. Place side by side on a platter, lapped side down to prevent spreading, dredge with sugar and, last of all, with a red-hot wire toaster or fine broiler burn lines on the sugared pancakes, so that the brown lines show distinctly. For a change, flavor the batter with orange, spread with orange marmalade and mix grated orange-peel with the sugar sprinkled over the rolled pancakes. A hot jelly or marmalade sauce may be served with these pancakes, if desired. Or try making the pancakes as large as a dessert-plate, and, when five or six are ready, arrange like a layer cake with plenty of butter and scraped maple-sugar or jelly between the layers and a generous supply of syrup or jelly sauce to pour over each portion as it is cut like a pie.

source

Alsatian Pancakes

Make a batter of one-half cup milk, three well-beaten egg-yolks, two teaspoons sugar, two tablespoons melted fat, one-half teaspoon salt and one cup flour. Beat thoroughly and add another one-half cup of milk and the stiffly beaten whites of the three eggs. More flour or milk may be needed to make the batter just right. Grease bottom and sides of a large shallow frying-pan. Pour in the batter and tilt the pan in all directions, so that a rim of batter is formed all around the edge of the pan. When firm, remove to hot oven until center puffs and edges become crisp. To serve, dredge with powdered sugar and squeeze over it some lemon-juice. Break down the puffed center of the pancake, fold one side toward the middle, add more sugar and lemon-juice and then fold over the other side. Cut in three or four portions. This is a splendid dessert to serve with coffee and is a great favorite with men.

Adapted From An Article By Helena Judson From The Delineator, February 1921

 

Mrs. Orville White Making Pancakes For Breakfast Near Northome, Minnesota
    Photo by Russell Lee (1937) (Courtesy of Library of Congress)